There isn’t much to see or do in Nurpur, which is the perfect excuse for going there.

Only 52 kms from the clamorous city, the area, complete with coconut groves, a meandering waterfront, a fishing village and a sprinkling of tea stalls and restaurants, spreads out like a fecund fantasy that soothes the soul and lends itself to lethargy and lore, most of it during the rains.

Not so long ago, however, this riparian reverie at the confluence of Hooghly, Rupnarayan and Bhagirathi was the province of pirates. The sight of boats, with their puffed-up sails, scudding across the choppy waters and suddenly silhouetted by streaks of lightning, paint the perfect picture of the time when the marauders ruled the river. Though Nurpur is only a stopover on way to Geonkhali in east Midnapore on the other bank, it is by no means a place to hurry through.

Sip some lip-scalding tea while getting directions to the graves of the skandakata (decapitated) sahib and mem and the ruins of the abandoned lighthouse. There are versions galore of the chain of tragic events that led to death and abandonment. Feel free to believe the person coming up with the most gripping and unbelievable story before buying a ticket for the ferry bound for Geonkhali.

The ride to Geonkhali might take anything between 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the ebb or flow of the current, but it is best to brace yourself for the overwhelming smell of freshly-caught fish once you get there.

Chingri, ilish and pabda are all on sale, for a steal. Cross the market and then a bamboo bridge to reach the irrigation bungalow. Walk the other way from the jetty at which you disembark to reach the Triveni Sangam Tourist Complex.

A short walk away is the fisherman hamlet. Definitely worth a visit for those who do not know how boats are fashioned from logs of wood. If that does not sound inviting enough, take a 20-minute bus ride to the 200-year-old Mahishadal Rajbari. The history of the palace does come with a generous dose of imagination, but is riveting none the less. The ruins bear testimony to the rise of Janardhan Upadhyay, an Uttar Pradesh resident who arrived here in the 16th century and, by the trick of trade, turned ruler.

How to get there

Take a train to Diamond Harbour on the Sealdah south section and then a local bus.

On another route

Nurpur is about 20 minutes from Raichak. Take a rickshaw. The odd jeep also plies.

Where to stay

Irrigation bungalow at Geonkhali; bookings can be done from the department’s Writers’ Buildings office.

Haldia Development Authority’s Triveni Sangam Tourist Complex.
Call 94340-20164 or 03224-310240 from Kolkata or try your luck after reaching Geonkhali.
Chances are there will be rooms available, for Rs 700 (AC, double) or Rs 500 (Non-AC, double) or Rs 300 (Non-AC, single).



The Telegraph