200 tiring steps to reach Him, touch Him and make a wish. God! I wished for a lesser number of steps so I could climb down fast. I asked the owner of a tea-stall in the vicinity how many steps there were to get back to terra firma. 200, he told me.

I reached the forest floor in 10 minutes, by which time I had finished counting from one to 200. My wish, breath and the Rs 10 pranami, had gone waste. The priest at the temple, however, had insisted that my “wish would be answered”. I guess Lord Shiva — actually all five of Him — was in a bad mood. After all, no one would enjoy staying submerged in freezing water all year round.

But that is exactly how it is at Panchalingeshwar, a place in Orissa that derives its name from the five Shiva lingas embedded in a fissure on a rock through which runs an exuberant stream. Four medium-sized rocks mark the spot where the otherwise invisible lingas stand immersed beneath the running waters. It is said that those who can feel them by groping around in the cold water will “definitely” have their wishes fulfiled.

Some four hours by train to Balasore and one-and-a-half hours by bus or jeep from there, Panchalingeshwar is a place exalted in legend and shrouded by dense jungles where a whole new world opens up with each step.

Jarasanth, the ruler of Magadh who finds mention in the Mahabharata, is said to have worshipped the five lingas here. He was, however, longitudinally ripped in two halves by Bhima, and chances are that he, too, must have wished otherwise.

Wishes apart, Panchalingeshwar, with its cave temple perched on top of a forested hillock and deep, silent woods, makes for an ideal weekend getaway, specially during autumn, when the forest is green and full of life. The hillock atop which the temple is situated — around 20 leisurely minutes on foot from the Panthashala — offers a spectacular view of the rolling Nilgiri hills that seem to stretch all the way to the horizon.

The symphony of birdcalls, complimented by whistling winds and gurgling brooks, provide constant company throughout the day. Crickets, owls and elephants take over the night shift. A fortunate few, and those with insomnia or a penchant for wildlife, can even catch a glimpse of the pachyderms on patrol on a full moon night, right outside the window.

How to get there:

Take the overnight Falaknama Express to Balasore. Buses (not too many of them) and jeeps take you to Panchalingeshwar.

Where to stay:

Orissa Tourism Panthasala. Rs 200 per room for four persons. The caretaker cooks. Bookings at Utkal Bhavan (Orissa Tourism), 55 Lenin Sarani, 22443653, 22441195



The Telegraph