A Teutonic summer

From fast Mercs and Porsches to the super-fast Deutsche Bahn trains — Germany is a land of superlatives and Stuttgart, with its rich culture and beauty, symbolises the best that the country has to offer. And South Germany, where Stuttgart is situated, has something for everyone — the dream-come-true Mercedes Benz and Porsche museums, quaint wine taverns and beer gardens to chill out in, museums and buildings steeped in history, shopping streets, spas, amusement parks and more.

Summer in Stuttgart — which extends till September — is a season for celebration. The capital of Baden-Württemberg region is home to the Königstrasse (King’s Street) —one of the longest shopping areas and a popular haunt for tourists.

After a bout of rain, the sun shone bright and warm upon my visit. I had a beautiful time, watching couples, children and families soaking in the sun, cycling around and lazing near the fountains at the palace square. Others sat in cafés lingering over beer and wine, nibbling on bread or meat, drowned in hearty conversation.

Stuttgart was once home to Georg W. F. Hegel, the famous philosopher. His house is now a museum with his manuscripts, pictures and documents on display. The main square in Stuttgart is steeped in history too. It has a castle, which used to house the dukes and counts of Württemberg, an old granary with a pointed roof, Renaissance buildings and modern glass structures. The old granary is visible from everywhere, towering into the sky. It is now a museum for musical instruments, while the castle is the State Museum with a lovely courtyard where concerts are held.

Walking around the square is the best way to get a feel of the city. I was lucky to experience the commotion of traditional markets, held on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays in the Marketplace and Schiller Square. It was the season for fresh asparagus, which was being sold on carts along with other veggies. A few feet away was the colourful flower market. There is also a permanent market for exotic grocery and home products, housed in the Market Hall across the road.

The S-bahn (suburban rail) and the U-bahn (underground rail) are well connected with all parts of the city. Depending on how long you will be in Stuttgart, pick up a three-day ticket or a single day pass that enables you to travel unlimited.

Another feather in Stuttgart’s cap is its history of automobiles. A short distance from Stuttgart station is the Porsche museum, which opened only last year. An imposing white structure, it houses around 80 beauties, right from the earliest models to the super-sleek Panamera.

The Mercedes Benz Museum too is a class apart — the building is in the form of a double helix, a nine-level display housing everything from the first automotive engine up to modern day models. One of the sections showcases Mercedes cars owned by celebrities, with the car owned by the late Princess Diana among them. The Queen didn’t approve of the Princess owning a German car and she had eventually returned it to Mercedes.

Stuttgart is also famous for its wines. A few miles outside the city you will find gentle rolling hills of grape vines arranged in neat rows. Make sure you visit the Nesenbach and Neckar valleys. History has it that as far back as 300 AD Roman Emperors cultivated vineyards here. Check out the wine trails in Ulhbach and visit the Stuttgart Viniculture museum to know about wine-making. Watch out for besens which are temporary wine taverns run privately by vine cultivators and have a broom (besen) hung outside their entrance as a welcome sign for guests. There are more than 300 besens in Stuttgart.

Another hotspot is the Schweine museum — possibly the world’s only pig museum. A rather eclectic idea of a single collector, it has 28 thematic rooms with pigs in all shapes, sizes and materials — from piggy banks and soft toys, to pigs in art and culture and myths and legends. Displayed over two levels, it houses a whopping 40,000 exhibits!

Wrap up your Stuttgart experience with shopping. Not for nothing does all of Germany flock to the small town of Metzingen on the outskirts of Stuttgart. Every big brand worth its name has an entire building to itself, each selling wares at a minimum discount of 30 per cent. What began with Hugo Boss opening a discount store for its employees, is now the most happening value-shopping destination of Germany. You just can’t miss it!

Ready reckoner

Getting there: There are regular flights to Stuttgart from Kolkata, via Vienna and London. Return airfare per person begins from Rs 48,000.

Staying there: There is a range of accommodation in Stuttgart ranging from youth hostels to five-star hotels.

Exchange rate: 1.00 EUR = 59.24 INR


The Personal Telegraph